Full-text resources of PSJD and other databases are now available in the new Library of Science.
Visit https://bibliotekanauki.pl

PL EN


Preferences help
enabled [disable] Abstract
Number of results

Journal

2013 | 14 | 3 | 254-264

Article title

The Climbing Preferences of Advanced Rock Climbers

Content

Title variants

Languages of publication

EN

Abstracts

EN
Purpose. Previous studies have broadened the knowledge about the general characteristics of rock climbing. However, there is a lack of research on rock climbers who are at a similar performance level but have different climbing preferences. The purpose of this study was to focus on what similarities and differences are present in the anthropometric, physiological, and training characteristics of advanced rock climbers. Methods. A group of 31 advanced Polish rock climbers volunteered to participate in the study. A questionnaire was administered to determine their climbing preferences. The participants’ anthropometric characteristics, physical fitness, and aerobic power were measured using standard methods. Results. Similarities were found among the climbers in terms of the training exercises they used, their preference for certain types of rock faces and rock handholds, and their participation in different types of climbing and other sports disciplines. Differences were found among various anthropometrical characteristics, physical fitness, and training exercise frequency between climbers who preferred different climbing styles (on-sight vs. redpoint) or climbing routes (“crux” vs. “endurance”). Conclusions. During the off-season, various training exercises were used, with the majority employing specialized forms of training (bouldering, repeating previously climbed routes, and leading routes in different styles). They practised on average 10 hours a week and preferred climbing overhanging walls with edge handholds. The best results the climbers achieved in on-sight climbing were in foreign countries and by individuals with high aerobic power measured by an arm ergometer test. Climbers who achieved better results in redpointing used the Campus board more frequently when training and completed their most difficult climbs in Poland. Additional differences were noted between climbers who preferred endurance routes and those who preferred shorter climbing efforts (crux routes), with the former presenting better finger flexor muscle endurance and greater muscle mass.

Keywords

Publisher

Journal

Year

Volume

14

Issue

3

Pages

254-264

Physical description

Dates

published
1 - 09 - 2013
online
15 - 10 - 2013

Contributors

author
  • The Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Physical Education, Katowice, Poland
  • The Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Physical Education, Katowice, Poland

References

  • 1. Nikołajczuk L., System of the consumption. Mechanism of social choice [in Polish]. SGPiS, Warszawa 1979.
  • 2. Czajkowski Z., Teaching the sports technique [in Polish]. COS, Warszawa 2004.
  • 3. Booth J., Marino F., Hill C., Gwinn T., Energy cost of sport climbing in elite performers. Br J Sports Med, 1999, 33 (1), 14-18, doi:10.1136/bjsm.33.1.14.[Crossref]
  • 4. Giles L.V., Rhodes E.C., Taunton J.E., The physiology of rock climbing. Sports Med, 2006, 36 (6), 529-545, doi: 10.2165/00007256-200636060-00006.[Crossref][PubMed]
  • 5. Mermier C.M., Rodbergs R.A., McMinn S.M., Heyward V.H., Energy expenditure and physiological responses during indoor rock climbing. Br J Sports Med, 1997, 31 (3), 224-228, doi: 10.1136/bjsm.31.3.224.[Crossref]
  • 6. Watts P.B., Physiology of difficult rock climbing. Eur J ApplPhysiol, 2004, 91 (4), 361-372, doi: 10.1007/s00421-003-1036-7.[Crossref]
  • 7. Watts P.B, Daggett M., Gallagher P., Wilkins B., Metabolic response during sport rock climbing and the effects of active versus passive recovery. Int J Sports Med, 2000, 21 (3), 185-190, doi: 10.1055/s-2000-302.[Crossref][PubMed]
  • 8. Watts P.B., Drobish K.M., Physiological responses to simulated rock climbing at different angles. Med Sci SportsExerc, 1998, 30 (7), 1118-1122.
  • 9. Gajewski J., Jarosiewicz B., Post-exercise decrease in handgrip force following a single training session in male and female climbers. Hum Mov, 2008, 9 (2), 121-123, doi: 10.2478/v10038-008-0015-6.[Crossref]
  • 10. Watts P.B., Joubert L.M., Lish A.K., Mast J.D., Wilkins B., Antropometry of young competitive sport rock climbers. Br J Sports Med, 2003, 37 (5), 420-424, doi: 10.1136/ bjsm.37.5.420.[Crossref]
  • 11. Watts P.B., Martin D.T., Durtschi S., Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers. J Sports Sci, 1993, 11 (2), 113-117, doi: 10.1080/ 02640419308729974 .[Crossref]
  • 12. Magiera A., Ryguła I., Biometric Model and Classification Functions in Sport Climbing. J Hum Kinetics, 2007, 18, 87-98.
  • 13. Mermier C.M., Janot J.M., Parker D.L., Swan J.G., Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. Br J Sports Med, 2000, 34 (5), 359-366, doi: 10.1136/bjsm.34.5.359.[Crossref]
  • 14. Kostermeyer G., Determination, importance and training local muscular endurance of the finger flexors in sport climbing [in German]. Ars Ulna, Neuried 2000.
  • 15. Sozański H (ed.), Basis of the theory of the sports training [in Polish]. COS, Warszawa 1999.
  • 16. Drozdowski Z., Sport anthropology [in Polish]. AWF, Poznań 1979.
  • 17. Grant S., Hynes V., Whittaker A., Aitchison T., Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. J Sport Sci, 1996, 14 (4), 301-309, doi: 10.1080/02640419608727715.[Crossref]
  • 18. Muller E., Held Ch., Training the sport climbing specific strength endurance of the finger flexors [in German]. Leistungssport, 1992, 5, 45-49.
  • 19. Hurni M., Coaching climbing: a complete program for coaching young climbing for high performance and safety. Falcon, Guilford 2003.
  • 20. de Geus B., O`Driscoll S.V., Meeusen R., Influence of climbing style on physiological responses during indoor rock climbing on routes with the same difficulty. Eur JAppl Physiol, 2006, 98 (5), 489-496, doi: 10.1007/s00421-006-0287-5.[Crossref]
  • 21. Rokowski R., Tokarz R., Importance of motoric capabilities of energy ground in sport climbing in competition of on-sight [in Polish]. Antropomotoryka, 2007, 17 (40), 81-91.
  • 22. Espana-Romero V., Ortega Porcel F.B, Artero E.G., Jimenez- Pavon D., Gutierrez Sainz A., Castillo Garzon M.J. et al., Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers. EurJ Appl Physiol, 2009, 107 (5), 517-525, doi: 10.1007/s00421-009-1155-x.[Crossref]
  • 23. Magiera A., Anthropometry, fitness, anaerobic and aerobic power of rock climbers [in Polish]. In: Mynarski W. (ed.) The theoretical and empirical aspects of recreation and tourism. AWF, Katowice 2008, 282-305.
  • 24. MacLeod D., Sutherland D.L., Buntin L., Whitaker A., Aitchison T., Watt I. et al., Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. J Sport Sci, 2007, 25 (12), 1433-144, doi: 10.1080/02640410600944550.[Crossref]
  • 25. de Moraes Bertuzzi R.C., Franchini E., Kokubun E., Kiss M.A.P.D.M., Energy system contributions in indoor rock climbing. Eur J Appl Physiol, 2007, 101 (3), 293-300, doi: 10.1007/s00421-007-0501-0.[WoS][Crossref]
  • 26. Wright D.M., Royle T.J., Marshall T., Indoor rock climbing: who gets injured? Br J Sports Med, 2001, 35 (3), 181-185, doi: 10.1136/bjsm.35.3.181.[Crossref]
  • 27. Schweizer A., Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers. J Biomech, 2001, 34 (2), 217-223, doi:10.1016/S0021-9290(00)00184-6.[PubMed][Crossref]
  • 28. Doran D.A., Moncrieff J., Energy expenditure and metabolic cost during technically similar but physically different rock climbing task. J Sport Sci, 1999, 17 (7), 571-609.

Document Type

Publication order reference

Identifiers

YADDA identifier

bwmeta1.element.-psjd-doi-10_2478_humo-2013-0031
JavaScript is turned off in your web browser. Turn it on to take full advantage of this site, then refresh the page.