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EN
Caffeine is well known alkaloid chemical compound belonging to the methyl-xanthines group. It is an active substance that is found in many cosmetic products, as it has a stimulating action on both the central nervous system and the metabolism. Commercially available topical formulations normally contain 3% of caffeine and 7% anticellulite products. The aim of our work was to investigate the properties of four cream preparations. These consisted of 5% of caffeine and one of four different emulsifiers (GSC, Sodium polyacrylate, Emulsifying Base, MDS). In our work, we compared the physical properties (spreadability, slip and tenacity), the rheological structure of the resulting creams and the caffeine release from the obtained preparations. The results showed that the properties of these creams and their drug release depended upon the kind of the emulsifiers utilised. What is more, all preparations have a pseudoplastic character of flow and most of them have significant thixotropy. Furthermore, the amount of released caffeine is the largest from the MDS cream, and this emulsifier seems to be the most optimal in all the examined items.
EN
The focus of this study was the preparation of novel bio based polyglycerol emulsifiers characterized by a one pot synthesis, thus by modified properties with respect to interfacial activity and effectiveness as emulsion stabilizers. The final products of the esterification process, carried out in the presence of carboxylates were used directly as emulsifiers (without purification or fractionation). Polyglycerol emulsifiers obtained in proposed conditions can be tailored to stabilize the defined emulsion system. The modification of the surface activity of emulsifiers may be obtained by programming the fatty acid acyl group in the polyglycerol ester as well as the hydrocarbon chain length in sodium soap and concentration of this compound in the reaction mixture.
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