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The Climbing Preferences of Advanced Rock Climbers

100%

Magiera A., Roczniok R.

Human Movement

2013

vol. 14

issue 3

254-264

Purpose. Previous studies have broadened the knowledge about the general characteristics of rock climbing. However, there is a lack of research on rock climbers who are at a similar performance level but have different climbing preferences. The purpose of this study was to focus on what similarities and differences are present in the anthropometric, physiological, and training characteristics of advanced rock climbers. Methods. A group of 31 advanced Polish rock climbers volunteered to participate in the study. A questionnaire was administered to determine their climbing preferences. The participants’ anthropometric characteristics, physical fitness, and aerobic power were measured using standard methods. Results. Similarities were found among the climbers in terms of the training exercises they used, their preference for certain types of rock faces and rock handholds, and their participation in different types of climbing and other sports disciplines. Differences were found among various anthropometrical characteristics, physical fitness, and training exercise frequency between climbers who preferred different climbing styles (on-sight vs. redpoint) or climbing routes (“crux” vs. “endurance”). Conclusions. During the off-season, various training exercises were used, with the majority employing specialized forms of training (bouldering, repeating previously climbed routes, and leading routes in different styles). They practised on average 10 hours a week and preferred climbing overhanging walls with edge handholds. The best results the climbers achieved in on-sight climbing were in foreign countries and by individuals with high aerobic power measured by an arm ergometer test. Climbers who achieved better results in redpointing used the Campus board more frequently when training and completed their most difficult climbs in Poland. Additional differences were noted between climbers who preferred endurance routes and those who preferred shorter climbing efforts (crux routes), with the former presenting better finger flexor muscle endurance and greater muscle mass.

The Structure of Performance of a Sport Rock Climber

61%

Magiera A., Roczniok R., Maszczyk A., Czuba M., Kantyka J., Kurek P.

Journal of Human Kinetics

2013

vol. 36

issue 1

107-117

This study is a contribution to the discussion about the structure of performance of sport rock climbers. Because of the complex and multifaceted nature of this sport, multivariate statistics were applied in the study. The subjects included thirty experienced sport climbers. Forty three variables were scrutinised, namely somatic characteristics, specific physical fitness, coordination abilities, aerobic and anaerobic power, technical and tactical skills, mental characteristics, as well as 2 variables describing the climber’s performance in the OS (Max OS) and RP style (Max RP). The results show that for training effectiveness of advanced climbers to be thoroughly analysed and examined, tests assessing their physical, technical and mental characteristics are necessary. The three sets of variables used in this study explained the structure of performance similarly, but not identically (in 38, 33 and 25%, respectively). They were also complementary to around 30% of the variance. The overall performance capacity of a sport rock climber (Max OS and Max RP) was also evaluated in the study. The canonical weights of the dominant first canonical root were 0.554 and 0.512 for Max OS and Max RP, respectively. Despite the differences between the two styles of climbing, seven variables - the maximal relative strength of the fingers (canonical weight = 0.490), mental endurance (one of scales : The Formal Characteristics of Behaviour-Temperament Inventory (FCB-TI; Strelau and Zawadzki, 1995)) (-0.410), climbing technique (0.370), isometric endurance of the fingers (0.340), the number of errors in the complex reaction time test (- 0.319), the ape index (-0.319) and oxygen uptake during arm work at the anaerobic threshold (0.254) were found to explain 77% of performance capacity common to the two styles.

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1 Human Movement

1 Journal of Human Kinetics

2 2013

2 Magiera A.

2 Roczniok R.

1 Czuba M.

1 Kantyka J.

1 Kurek P.

1 Maszczyk A.

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The Climbing Preferences of Advanced Rock Climbers

The Structure of Performance of a Sport Rock Climber