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Optimization of Antioxidant Properties of Creams with Berry Extracts by Artificial Neural Networks

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Makarova K., Zawada K., Wagner D., Skowyra J.
Acta Physica Polonica A
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2017
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vol. 132
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issue 1
44-51
EN
Oxidative stress and the excess of free radicals accelerate the ageing process of human skin. The application of skin cream with antioxidant compounds could reduce the damage caused by free radicals. In this work we studied two types of skin creams with extracts from aronia (Aronia melanocarpa), elderberry (Sambucus nigra) and bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) because of their high content of anthocyanins, i.e. strong natural antioxidants. The 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging ability of the skin creams with berry extracts were studied with ESR spectroscopy. The artificial neural networks were applied to optimize the berry extract concentration and storage time for oil-in-water and water-in-oil creams. Based on experimental results chokeberry and elderberry extracts in oil-in-water cream base revealed higher DPPH radical scavenging ability than in the corresponding water-in-oil. Artificial neural networks predicts maxima of DPPH radical scavenging for 1-week stored elderberry (2.23 mg DPPH/g) and 1-week stored chokeberry (5.84 mg DPPH/g) and bilberry (5.26 mg DPPH/g) 0.76% extracts in oil-in-water creams. The maxima of DPPH radical scavenging for water-in-oil creams were predicted for 6-week stored 0.8% aronia extract, freshly prepared 0.76% bilberry extract and 1-week stored 0.56% elderberry extract. The artificial neural networks predicted values are in good agreement with the experimental values. DPPH-EPR could be combined with artificial neural networks to optimize the extract concentration, and the type of cream base as well as to predict the effect of storage based on a limited number of experiments and samples.
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The Optimization of Antioxidant Properties of Herbal Bathing Salts

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Zawada K., Makarova K., Kowalska D., Wawer I.
Acta Physica Polonica A
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2017
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vol. 132
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issue 1
56-61
EN
The antioxidant properties 4 herbal infusions (of lavender flower, melissa leaf, verbena herb, and birch leaf), 2 salts (Dead Sea and Bochnia Mine salts) and 8 herbal salts (combination of herbal extract and salt) have been evaluated by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl-ESR (DPPH-ESR) test, ferric reducing antioxidant power and spin trap ESR using the Fenton reaction. The influence of herbal extracts and herbal salts on lipid membrane permeability has been studied with the spin probe ESR in the range of 293-323 K. The highest antioxidant activity was determined for melissa leaf preparations followed by birch leaf preparations in DPPH and ferric reducing antioxidant power assays whereas in the Fenton reaction the highest radical scavenging was observed for verbena herb and melissa leaf preparations. The lowest membrane permeability was observed in the presence of infusions of melissa and birch leaves, followed by corresponding herbal salts based on Bochnia Mine salt, and it was lower than in the reference system. On the other hand, lavender infusion increased the permeability of the model membrane, whereas the lavender salts decreased it. Therefore, the antioxidant activity of herbal infusions and salts towards skin could be inhibited by a lowered permeability. Thus, the combination of permeability studies with antioxidant studies in the presence of model lipids could be potentially used for optimization of other types of herbal bath salts.
3
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Antioxidant Properties and Stability of Geissospermum Reticulatum Tinctures: Lag Phase ESR and Chemometric Analysis

100%
Sajkowska-Kozielewicz J. J., Gulik K., Makarova K., Paradowska K.
Acta Physica Polonica A
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2017
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vol. 132
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issue 1
68-73
EN
Geissospermum species are widely used in folk medicine in the Amazon region. This study was conducted to determine total phenolic and flavonoid contents of three tinctures of Geissospermum reticulatum barks from Peruvian Amazon and correlate these contents to the antioxidant activities and stability. Total content of phenolic compounds (from 694.91 to 1430.67 mg GAE/kg) and flavonoids (575.23-815.65 mg CAE/kg) were found by spectrophotometric methods. The obtained values were interpreted by artificial neural networks to describe the most beneficial conditions for tinctures. All tinctures have demonstrated the maximum of total flavonoid between 14 and 20 weeks of maceration, whereas the maximum of total flavonoid was between 25 and 30. The highest antioxidant properties were exhibited by tinctures in 3 different tests (ferric reducing ability of plasma, DPPH-ESR, oxygen radical absorbance capacity) after 35 weeks of maceration. The principal component analysis was employed to relate contents and properties. Results from the lag phase with α -(4-pyridyl-1-oxide)-N-tert-butylnitrone (POBN) spin trap studies at 60°C demonstrated that the stability of tinctures were related to total phenolic content. Thus, samples with 550-800 mg GAE/kg were more stable than those with higher total phenolic contents. The most beneficial conditions for bark tinctures depend on aimed final products, e.g. maximum of polyphenols or flavonoids and long-term stability. Further studies about content and storage conditions are needed.
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