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The Climbing Preferences of Advanced Rock Climbers

100%
Human Movement
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2013
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vol. 14
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issue 3
254-264
EN
Purpose. Previous studies have broadened the knowledge about the general characteristics of rock climbing. However, there is a lack of research on rock climbers who are at a similar performance level but have different climbing preferences. The purpose of this study was to focus on what similarities and differences are present in the anthropometric, physiological, and training characteristics of advanced rock climbers. Methods. A group of 31 advanced Polish rock climbers volunteered to participate in the study. A questionnaire was administered to determine their climbing preferences. The participants’ anthropometric characteristics, physical fitness, and aerobic power were measured using standard methods. Results. Similarities were found among the climbers in terms of the training exercises they used, their preference for certain types of rock faces and rock handholds, and their participation in different types of climbing and other sports disciplines. Differences were found among various anthropometrical characteristics, physical fitness, and training exercise frequency between climbers who preferred different climbing styles (on-sight vs. redpoint) or climbing routes (“crux” vs. “endurance”). Conclusions. During the off-season, various training exercises were used, with the majority employing specialized forms of training (bouldering, repeating previously climbed routes, and leading routes in different styles). They practised on average 10 hours a week and preferred climbing overhanging walls with edge handholds. The best results the climbers achieved in on-sight climbing were in foreign countries and by individuals with high aerobic power measured by an arm ergometer test. Climbers who achieved better results in redpointing used the Campus board more frequently when training and completed their most difficult climbs in Poland. Additional differences were noted between climbers who preferred endurance routes and those who preferred shorter climbing efforts (crux routes), with the former presenting better finger flexor muscle endurance and greater muscle mass.
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EN
The purpose of this study was to determine ice-hockey players’ playing intensity based on their heart rates (HRs) recorded during a game and on the outcomes of an incremental maximum oxygen uptake test. Twenty ice-hockey players, members of the Polish junior national team (U18), performed an incremental test to assess their maximal oxygen uptake (V̇ O2max) in the two week’s period preceding 5 games they played at the World Championships. Players’ HRs at the first and second ventilatory thresholds obtained during the test were utilized to determine intensity zones (low, moderate, and high) that were subsequently used to classify HR values recorded during each of the games. For individual intensity zones, the following HRs expressed as mean values and as percentages of the maximal heart rate (HRmax) were obtained: forwards 148-158 b⋅min-1 (79.5-84.8% HRmax), 159-178 b⋅min-1 (85.4-95.6% HRmax), 179-186 b⋅min-1 (96.1-100.0% HRmax); defensemen 149-153 b⋅min-1 (80.0-82.1% HRmax), 154-175 b⋅min-1 (82.6- 94.0% HRmax), 176-186 b⋅min-1 (94.5-100.0% HRmax). The amount of time the forwards and defensemen spent in the three intensity zones expressed as percentages of the total time of the game were: 54.91 vs. 55.62% (low), 26.40 vs. 22.38% (moderate) and 18.68 vs. 22.00% (high). The forwards spent more time in the low intensity zone than the defensemen, however, the difference was not statistically significant. The results of the study indicate that using aerobic and anaerobic metabolism variables to determine intensity zones can significantly improve the reliability of evaluation of the physiological demands of the game, and can be a useful tool for coaches in managing the training process.
EN
Purpose. The aim of the present investigations was to determine the effects of aqua aerobics on body weight and composition, lipid profile, and selected blood count parameters in middle-aged sedentary females. Methods. Twenty-one women were randomly assigned to an experimental group (age 56.20 ± 2.57 years, height 162.80 ± 4.76 cm, weight 74.03 ± 3.84 kg) that participated in aqua aerobics classes three times a week for three months and a control group (mean age 56.44 ± 3.28 years, height 165.00 ± 3.91 cm, weight 70.01 ± 11.36 kg) not involved in any kind of targeted exercise. The aqua aerobics classes were tailored to suit the age and abilities of the participants, with workout intensity controlled and maintained at approximately 128-137 bpm. Results. Significant differences between the experimental and control groups were found for body weight, total body water, fat-free mass, and skeletal muscle mass. A significant increase in post-intervention hemoglobin and erythrocyte counts was observed in the experimental group. Conclusions. Future studies should determine the intensity of physical activity with the most beneficial effect on blood variables in middle-aged and older individuals.
EN
The world’s population is aging. Aquatic exercises can improve the physical function in humans and raise the quality of their lives in middle and older age. The study aimed to determine the effect of aqua aerobics on the selected somatic, physiological and aerobic capacity parameters in postmenopausal women. 11 purposively selected women that were confirmed overweight or obese by 20% and had Body Mass Index of 30±5 (the first stage of obesity) took part in aqua aerobics classes three times a week for 14 weeks. Their mean age was 56.18±3.19 years and mean height was 166.5±7.41 cm. The value of LBM and muscle mass (p=0.04 in both cases) were statistically significantly higher at study end compared with their baseline values, likewise haemoglobin concentration (p=0.001), haematocrit (p=0.03) and blood cell count (p=0.01), whereas BMI (p=0.02) and percentage body fat (p=0.04) were significantly lower. The lactate analysis revealed significant changes in LAmax (p=0.04), LAres9' (p=0.02), DeltaLAmax-LAsp (p=0.02) and DeltaLAres9’-LAres3’ (p=0,0004). After 14 weeks of aqua aerobic workout, significant changes were noted in the selected somatic, morphological and aerobic capacity parameters in postmenopausal women, but the differences between the lipid profiles were insignificant.
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The Structure of Performance of a Sport Rock Climber

62%
EN
This study is a contribution to the discussion about the structure of performance of sport rock climbers. Because of the complex and multifaceted nature of this sport, multivariate statistics were applied in the study. The subjects included thirty experienced sport climbers. Forty three variables were scrutinised, namely somatic characteristics, specific physical fitness, coordination abilities, aerobic and anaerobic power, technical and tactical skills, mental characteristics, as well as 2 variables describing the climber’s performance in the OS (Max OS) and RP style (Max RP). The results show that for training effectiveness of advanced climbers to be thoroughly analysed and examined, tests assessing their physical, technical and mental characteristics are necessary. The three sets of variables used in this study explained the structure of performance similarly, but not identically (in 38, 33 and 25%, respectively). They were also complementary to around 30% of the variance. The overall performance capacity of a sport rock climber (Max OS and Max RP) was also evaluated in the study. The canonical weights of the dominant first canonical root were 0.554 and 0.512 for Max OS and Max RP, respectively. Despite the differences between the two styles of climbing, seven variables - the maximal relative strength of the fingers (canonical weight = 0.490), mental endurance (one of scales : The Formal Characteristics of Behaviour-Temperament Inventory (FCB-TI; Strelau and Zawadzki, 1995)) (-0.410), climbing technique (0.370), isometric endurance of the fingers (0.340), the number of errors in the complex reaction time test (- 0.319), the ape index (-0.319) and oxygen uptake during arm work at the anaerobic threshold (0.254) were found to explain 77% of performance capacity common to the two styles.
EN
The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of 3-week high intensity interval training in normobaric hypoxia (IHT) on aerobic capacity in basketball players. Twelve male well trained basketball players, randomly divided into a hypoxia (H) group (n=6; age: 22±1.6 years; VO2max: 52.6±3.9 ml/kg/min; body height - BH: 188.8±6.1 cm; body mass - BM: 83.9±7.2 kg; % of body fat - FAT%: 11.2±3.1%), and a control (C) group (n=6; age: 22±2.4 years; VO2max: 53.0±5.2 ml/kg/min; BH: 194.3 ± 6.6 cm; BM: 99.9±11.1 kg; FAT% 11.0±2.8 %) took part in the study. The training program applied during the study was the same for both groups, but with different environmental conditions during the selected interval training sessions. For 3 weeks, all subjects performed three high intensity interval training sessions per week. During the interval training sessions, the H group trained in a normobaric hypoxic chamber at a simulated altitude of 2500 m, while the group C performed interval training sessions under normoxia conditions also inside the chamber. Each interval running training sessions consisted of four to five 4 min bouts at 90% of VO2max velocity determined in hypoxia (vVO2max-hyp) for the H group and 90% of velocity at VO2max determined in normoxia for the group C. The statistical post-hoc analysis showed that the training in hypoxia caused a significant (p<0.001) increase (10%) in total distance during the ramp test protocol (the speed was increased linearly by 1 km/h per 1min until volitional exhaustion), as well as increased (p<0.01) absolute (4.5%) and relative (6.2%) maximal workload (WRmax). Also, the absolute and relative values of VO2max in this group increased significantly (p<0.001) by 6.5% and 7.8%. Significant, yet minor changes were also observed in the group C, where training in normoxia caused an increase (p<0.05) in relative values of WRmax by 2.8%, as well as an increase (p<0.05) in the absolute (1.3%) and relative (2.1%) values of VO2max. This data suggest that an intermittent hypoxic training protocol with high intensity intervals (4 to 5 x 4 min bouts at 90% of vVO2max-hyp) is an effective training means for improving aerobic capacity at sea level in basketball players.
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Content available remote

Time Series Approach To Athletes Motor Potential

62%
EN
Introduction. The aim of this study was to determine the dynamics of changes in selected motor abilities of javelin throwers and to determine predictors of javelin throw distances. Material and methods. Research material included the results obtained from a group of 60 competitors from the Silesia Region of Poland, aged 14 - 15 years. In order to answer the research question, the following statistical analysis were employed: Pearson's linear correlation coefficients, vectors R0 and R1, time series analysis, distributed lag analysis and Almon distributed lag analysis and coefficient of concordance φ2Results. The correlation analyzes allowed for a selection of two variables for further analyses: specific strength of arms and trunk (SSAT) and specific strength of shoulders girdle and trunk (SSGT). Calculated indexes revealed that the level of SSAT showed a constant upward tendency (+15%). The highest rise in SSAT level was recorded in the 4th and 5th quarter (+9%). The level of SSGT showed an upward tendency nearly (+6%). In this case, the highest rise was observed in the 7th and 8th quarter (+4.5%). Conclusions. The standardized regression analysis revealed that the variable of specific power of arms and trunk (SOBT) is the most important predictor for javelin throw distance with a full approach run.
EN
This paper analyses the dynamics of changes between the performances of elite freestyle swimmers recorded at particular Olympic Games. It also uses a set of chronologically ordered results to predict probable times of swimmers at the 2012 Olympic Games in London. The analysis of past performances of freestyle swimmers and their prediction have revealed a number of interesting tendencies within separately examined results of men and women. Women's results improve more dynamically compared with men's. Moreover, the difference between women's and men's results is smaller, the longer the swimming distance. As both male and female athletes tend to compete more and more vigorously within their groups, the gap between the gold medallist and the last finisher in the final is constantly decreasing, which provides significant evidence that this sport discipline continues to develop.
EN
Purpose. The main goal of this study was to determine the predictive value of the indexes of aerobic and anaerobic endurance in relation to specific on-ice tests performed by hockey players that focus on strength, power, speed as well as speed and strength endurance. Methods. Ice hockey players, who were members of the U20 (under 20 years of age) Polish National Ice Hockey Team, were selected from the Athletic School in Sosnowiec, Poland. Parameters that determine anaerobic and aerobic capacity were evaluated and a special physical fitness assessment was made based on a battery of ice-hockey specific tests. The degree and direction of correlations between the individual parameters of anaerobic and aerobic endurance and the special physical fitness test were calculated. Results. The obtained results found significant correlations between maximal power obtained from the Wingate test and certain aspects of the special physical fitness test, specifically the 6 × 9 turns, 6 × 9 stops and 6 × 30 m endurance tests. Significant correlations of the above-mentioned special physical fitness tests were also observed with the aerobic capacity parameter, VO2max. Conclusions. The obtained results could be considerably useful in training, as well as providing much more information on athletes which can then be suited for more personalized forms of training.
EN
The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of steroidal saponin supplementation on blood concentration of T, GH and IGF-1. The research involved 14 men between the age of 45 and 60 years. The duration of the experiment was 12 weeks. There were two series of laboratory tests. Independent tests were conducted at the beginning and after 12 weeks of the intervention. A two-way repeated measures ANOVA revealed a statistically significant effect of the intervention on the following variables: T-Ch (η2 = 0.542), HDL-Ch (η2 = 0.522), LDL-Ch (η2 = 0.587), T (η2 = 0.603), IGF-1 (η2 = 0.512) and GH (η2 = 0.621). Thus, FFM significantly increased while TBF and BM decreased in comparison to pre-intervention levels. The analyzed results indicate that treatment or supplementation of individual hormone deficiencies can be a successful form of counteracting the aging process. Nevertheless, the effects of TT supplementation on the concentration of T as well as GH and IGF-1, requires further studies, especially in middle-aged and older subjects, along with different exercise programs. The analyzed results indicate that treatment or supplementation of individual hormone deficiencies can be a major form of counteracting the aging process.
EN
The aim of the present study was to compare executive attention of top soccer referees and assistant referees at different levels of professional attainment. The sample consisted of 53 subjects (FIFA and national level) - 30 referees and 23 assistant referees. Executive attention of assistant referees was significantly better than the referees’ (p<0.01). Furthermore, extraclass and international referees demonstrated better executive attention than the first-league referees (p<0.01). The research results have proved that referees’ executive attention differs depending on their function and professional level, as well as indicated that the quality of abilities may influence the number and correctness of decisions made during a game. This elementary cognitive process may be strongly shaped by individual’s experience and age. This finding may be instrumental in screening referees and developing criteria for recruiting future referees.
12
52%
EN
The aim of this study was to present the results of analyses conducted by means of complementary analytic tools in order to verify their efficacy and the hypothesis that Kohonen’s neural models may be applied in the classification process of swimmers. A group of 40 swimmers, aged 23 ±5 years took part in this research. For the purpose of verification of usefulness of Kohonen’s neural models, statistical analyses were carried out on the basis of results of the independent variables (physiological and physical profiles, specific tests in the water). In predicting the value of variables measured with the so called strong scale regression models, numerous variables were used. The construction of such models required strict determination of the endogenous variable (Y – results for swim distances of 200 m crawl), as well as the proper choice of variables in explaining the study’s phenomenon. The optimum choice of explanatory variables for the Kohonen’s networks was made on the grounds of regression analysis. During statistical analysis of the gathered material neural networks were used: Kohonen’s feature maps (data mining analysis). The obtained model has the form of a topological map, where certain areas can be separated, and the map constructed in this way can be used in the assessment of candidates for sports training.
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