The Effect of Climbing Ability and Slope Inclination on Vertical Foot Loading Using a Novel Force Sensor Instrumentation System

• Authors: Jiří Baláš , Michaela Panáčková , Soňa Jandová , Andrew J. Martin , Barbora Strejcová , Ladislav Vomáčko , Jan Charousek , Darryl J. Cochrane , Mike Hamlin , Nick Draper
• Languages of publication: EN

Abstracts

EN

The aim of the study was to assess the effects of climbing ability and slope inclination on vertical loading both in terms the forces involved and physiological responses. Five novice and six intermediate female climbers completed a climbing route at three slope inclinations (85°, 90°, and 98°). The vertical loading during the climb was assessed by force-time integral using a Novel Pedar-X insole and physiological responses via oxygen uptake and heart rate. The novice climbers had a significantly lower (p < 0.05) vertical loading on foot holds and higher oxygen uptake and heart rate compared to intermediate climbers. A significant negative correlation was identified between the force-time integral and oxygen uptake (R = -0.72), and with heart rate (R = -0.64), respectively. The time-force integral decreased across the ascents with increasing slope inclination (p < 0.001). The results indicate that more advanced ability climbers make greater use of foot holds, with associated lowering in physiological response (oxygen uptake and heart rate) across all slope inclinations.

Keywords

EN

indoor climbing; vertical force; Pedar X insole; force sensor; oxygen uptake

• Publisher: De Gruyter Open
• Journal: Journal of Human Kinetics
• Year: 2014
• Volume: 44
• Issue: 1
• Pages: 75-81

Dates

published

1 - 12 - 2014

accepted

1 - 12 - 2014

online

30 - 12 - 2014

Contributors

author

Jiří Baláš

• Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic

author

Michaela Panáčková

• Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic

author

Soňa Jandová

• Faculty of Science, Humanities and Education, Technical University, Liberec, Czech Republic

author

Andrew J. Martin

• School of Sport and Exercise, Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand.

author

Barbora Strejcová

• Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic

author

Ladislav Vomáčko

• Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic

author

Jan Charousek

• Faculty of Science, Humanities and Education, Technical University, Liberec, Czech Republic

author

Darryl J. Cochrane

• School of Sport and Exercise, Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand

author

Mike Hamlin

• Faculty of Environment, Society and Design, University of Lincoln, Lincoln, New Zealand

author

Nick Draper

• Department of Life Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, UK
• School of Sport and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand

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Identifiers

DOI

10.2478/hukin-2014-0112