Full-text resources of PSJD and other databases are now available in the new Library of Science.
Visit https://bibliotekanauki.pl


Preferences help
enabled [disable] Abstract
Number of results
2013 | 36 | 1 | 107-117

Article title

The Structure of Performance of a Sport Rock Climber


Title variants

Languages of publication



This study is a contribution to the discussion about the structure of performance of sport rock climbers. Because of the complex and multifaceted nature of this sport, multivariate statistics were applied in the study. The subjects included thirty experienced sport climbers. Forty three variables were scrutinised, namely somatic characteristics, specific physical fitness, coordination abilities, aerobic and anaerobic power, technical and tactical skills, mental characteristics, as well as 2 variables describing the climber’s performance in the OS (Max OS) and RP style (Max RP). The results show that for training effectiveness of advanced climbers to be thoroughly analysed and examined, tests assessing their physical, technical and mental characteristics are necessary. The three sets of variables used in this study explained the structure of performance similarly, but not identically (in 38, 33 and 25%, respectively). They were also complementary to around 30% of the variance. The overall performance capacity of a sport rock climber (Max OS and Max RP) was also evaluated in the study. The canonical weights of the dominant first canonical root were 0.554 and 0.512 for Max OS and Max RP, respectively. Despite the differences between the two styles of climbing, seven variables - the maximal relative strength of the fingers (canonical weight = 0.490), mental endurance (one of scales : The Formal Characteristics of Behaviour-Temperament Inventory (FCB-TI; Strelau and Zawadzki, 1995)) (-0.410), climbing technique (0.370), isometric endurance of the fingers (0.340), the number of errors in the complex reaction time test (- 0.319), the ape index (-0.319) and oxygen uptake during arm work at the anaerobic threshold (0.254) were found to explain 77% of performance capacity common to the two styles.









Physical description


1 - 03 - 2013
13 - 04 - 2013


  • Academy of Physical Education, Department of Tourism and Sport Management, Katowice, Poland
  • Academy of Physical Education, Department of Sports Theory, Katowice, Poland
  • Academy of Physical Education, Department of Sports Theory, Katowice, Poland
  • Academy of Physical Education, Department of Sports Theory, Katowice, Poland
  • Academy of Physical Education, Department of Tourism and Sport Management, Katowice, Poland
  • Department of Physiotherapy, University of Technology, Opole, Poland


  • Babić V, Harasin D, Dizdar D. Relation of the variables of power and morphological characteristic to the kinematic indicators of maximal speed running. Kinesiology, 2007; 39 (1): 28-39
  • Blažević S. Some relations between boxer`s cognitive abilities and morphological characteristics. ActaKinesiologica, 2009; 3 (1): 7-11
  • Booth J, Marino F, Hill Ch, Gwinn T. Energy cost of sport climbing in elite performers. Br J Sports Med, 1999; 33: 14 - 18[Crossref][PubMed]
  • España-Romero V, Artero EG, Ortega FB, Jiménez-Pavón D, Gutiérrez A, Castilllo MJ, Ruiz JR. Physiology of sport climbing. Available. Revista Internacional de Medicina y Ciencias de la Actividad Física y elDeporte, 2009; 9(35): 264 - 298 http://cdeporte.rediris.es/revista/revista35/artescalada129.htm.
  • España-Romero V, Ortega Porcel FB, Artero EG, Jiménez-Pavón D, Gutiérrez Sainz A, Castillo Garzón MJ, Ruiz JR. Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers. Eur J Appl Physiol, 2009; 107 (5): 517-25[Crossref][WoS]
  • Ferguson RA, Brown MD. Arterial blood pressure and forearm vascular conductance responses to sustained and rhythmic isometric exercise and arterial occlusion in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects. Eur J Appl Physiol, 1997; 76: 174-180[Crossref]
  • Giles LV, Rhodes EC, Taunton JE. The physiology of rock climbing. Sports Med 2006; 36 (6): 529-545[Crossref][PubMed]
  • Grant S, Shields C, Fitzpatrick V, Ming Loh W, Whitaker A, Watt I, Kay JW. Climbing-specific finger endurance: a comparative study of intermediate rock climbers, rowers and aerobically trained individuals. J of Sports Science, 2003; 21: 621-630[Crossref]
  • Guidi O. Coaching and structure of sport preparation. Available: www.ffme.fr/France.escalade, accessed in 06.2002
  • Hörst EJ. Training for climbing: the definitive guide to improving your climbing performance. A Falcon guide. Guilford; 2003
  • Köstermeyer G. Determination, importance and practise the local muscular endurance of the finger flexors in sport climbing. Ars Ulna. Neuried, 2000
  • MacLeod D, Sutherland DL, Buntin L, Whitaker A, Aitchison T, Watt I, Bradley J, Grant S. Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. J SportsSciences, 2007; 25(12): 1433 - 144
  • Magiera A, Ryguła I. Biometric Model and Classification Functions in Sport Climbing. J of Human Kinetics, 2007; 18: 87-98
  • Malacko J. The canonical relations between the systems of variables of basic motor and cognitive abilities of top footballers. Kinesiologia Slovenica, 2010; 16 (1-2): 61-67
  • Mermier Ch, Janot J, Parker D, Swan J. Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. Br J Sports Med, 2000; 34: 359-366[PubMed][Crossref]
  • Müller E, Held Ch. Training the strength endurance of the finger flexors in sport climbing. Leistungssport 1992; 5: 45- 49
  • Quaine F, Vigouroux L, Martin L. Finger flexors fatigue in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects. Int J Sports Med, 2003; 24: 424-7[PubMed]
  • Quaine F, Vigouroux L. Maximal resultant four fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand in different sport climbing finger grips. Int J Sports Med, 2004; 25: 634-37[Crossref][PubMed]
  • Sheel WA, Seddon N, Knight A, Mckenzie DC, Warburton DE. Physiological responses to indoor rockclimbing and their relationship to maximal cycle ergometry. Med. Sciences Sports Exerc, 2003; 35: 1225-1231[Crossref]
  • Watts P. Physiology of difficult rock climbing. Eur J Appl Physiol, 2004; 91: 361 - 372[PubMed][Crossref]

Document Type

Publication order reference


YADDA identifier

JavaScript is turned off in your web browser. Turn it on to take full advantage of this site, then refresh the page.